The next day – it turned serious.
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, with Buddha statues genuinely studded in diamonds, gave way that afternoon to Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields. It's confronting, as it should be — you can't understand Cambodia without understanding what it survived.
I met a survivor who had penned his story, he sat at a table with his stack of books in front of him. I bought a copy, read it from cover to cover in a day – unbelieving of the horrors.
We packed and left Phnom Penh for Siem Reap, where the trip changed gear entirely.
The next day, before the rest of us had even had breakfast, one of the woman in our group had already slipped off to Artisans Angkor, a silk-weaving centre founded in 1992 to train rural Cambodians in traditional craft. She came back full of stories about silk worms and paraded silk scarfs made in front of her eyes!
Later that morning we travelled to Angkor Thom, and stood awestruck beneath the great stone faces of Bayon, then onwards to Ta Prohm, where roots the size of tree trunks have swallowed the ruins whole — you’ll know it as the Tomb Raider temple, which looks better in person than on the screen.